Doves and pigeons are very peaceful and those kept as pets will even seek out affection from their human family

Domesticated doves and pigeons like human contact. They are quiet and peaceful, and make wonderful pets. Pet Pigeons and all types of doves have a subtle appeal due to their special characteristics. Most have a pleasant voice. It is generally a 'cooing' sound and most have about 4 or 5 types of calls. The strut of these adorable birds is accompanied with head nodding. When pigeon breeds and doves take flight, they take off with a whirring sound. These breeds were noted early on for their flying behaviors which include aerial acrobatics as well as a homing instinct. These birds can be quite entertaining as well as useful. Throughout history they have been used to carry messages, and were known as carrier pigeons. The homing instinct is still employed today

Keeping Records For Successful Pigeon Racing

One thing that goes under the radar a lot is record keeping. However, making sure you are actively keeping records of training schedules, feed mixtures, breeding, and of course race results. There is so much information that you should be recording if you are wanting to improve your pigeon racing success. For training purposes it is critical to record all schedules and type of training etc. Especially if you are testing out a couple different training systems, you will want to have everything recorded so you know what is working and what is not. Keeping track of a pigeon that is in one training system, and one in another, for example, you can easy tell which system is working the best for you. By the time race day comes, if one wins a race, you can look back and see exactly what that pigeon went through, so now all you have to do is duplicate it. Feed mixtures is another thing you will want to write down and keep track of when your pigeons eat, how much, and what type of mixture you have given them. And again if you are testing out a few different types of mixtures for certain things, even more reason why you need to be recording. Keeping a record of breeding is very, very important. You will want to know who mated with who, and who are the off springs. Making sure you are keeping track of the positive and negative qualities the pigeons are producing. And mentioning what type of breeding you used, for example line breeding or out-crossing breeding. There are many different ways to keep all of these records, so it is best you find something that works with you. I will give you some examples of what some fanciers do. Some with keep track of every single racing pigeon in their loft. What they eat, when they train, and when they race. And all of the results for each. What this does is create a big profile of the pigeon, and say that pigeon is quite successful at racing, or breeding, they can go back and see everything that they have done with that pigeon. For keeping track of training and feeding, you can use a calendar for a single pigeon. Mark down what time they rest, train, eat, etc. And then inside of each category make a note of what type of training they went through, and for how long, what was in their feed that day, and how much they ate. As you see this can get complex, which is why it is important to keep it simple, yet make sure you get all information

Pigeon Nest Boxes - Simple Tips To Give Your Birds A Box They Will Love

Pigeon nest boxes have come about as a replica of how our pigeons would live in the wild. Domestic pigeons are descendants of the Blue Rock Pigeon; these pigeons normally lived in flocks and nested together in caves and holes in cliff faces. Our modern day pigeons still retain that cave instinct and so we provide modern equivalents for them, in the form of pigeon nest boxes. The pigeon nest boxes must be roomy and well ventilated, with a lot of light. Unlike most birds, the pigeon doesn't need total isolation when nesting and, in fact, prefers settling down when other pairs are breeding close by. The size of pigeon nest boxes should be proportionate to the breed. As a guide to the beginner, a box of the following dimensions is ideal for pigeon nest boxes: The overall length of each box should be around 24 inches, the height 18 inches and the depth about 17 inches. This size of pigeon nest boxes gives enough space for the parent pigeons and their future offspring. If the boxes are built in sections then they can be made a permanent fixture of the loft. However, if you want to make each of the pigeon nest boxes a separate unit, then you have the added advantage that they can be easily removed for cleaning and fumigation. Also, if you're tight on space, you can remove them and give your birds more room when they're not breeding. Each of the pigeon nest boxes must be fitted with a suitable front that allows the birds some privacy, as well as allowing you get prevent other birds from entering and interfering with the pairing or the young birds. It is recommended that you provide a small shelf, about seven or eight inches from the floor of the box, on which to place the nest bowl itself. This gives extra protection to the youngsters when they first leave the nest. The number of nests in the loft depends on how many pigeons you are keeping. As an absolute minimum, you should have a nest for every pair of mated birds, though two boxes for each mated pair is ideal as this prevents arguments between territorial cocks. The boxes should be kept closed when not in use, as some old cocks will try to set up an empire of boxes all for themselves! Given the opportunity, these dominant males will claim every box and try to stop any newcomers from using them. Newly mated pairs should be kept and fed in their boxes for several days before being allowed into the loft. It's best to return them to their nest box by hand each night for a week to ten days afterward, to be certain that they are well established. Allowing pigeons to select their own boxes usually results in a great many fights, broken eggs, and injured youngsters. Above all, pigeon nest boxes should be comfortable for your pigeons, as the happier they are in them, the happier they will be to lay!

Racing Pigeon Feed - What You Should Be Adding To Your Pigeon Feed To Increase Their Speed

Water and Honey in Racing Pigeon Feed There is honey... and more honey. First of all, we have the ordinary imported honey, which in our country, is mixed with sugar. Then, we have the pure bee-honey which we can get from bee-keepers. Years ago, it was easier to get honey from the bee-keepers than it is to-day. Of late, the number of bee-keepers has declined tremendously. Today, men no longer care to look after the hives, where they have to work daily wearing a mask and heavy gloves! Actually, we prefer the honey which we obtain from a bee-keeper. In this case, we consider honey a cure, containing excellent qualities. Honey is especially good for improving the breathing, and for the nervous system. It aids digestion, and is a nutriment for people with stomach troubles. Persons who suffer from rheumatism and gout should use honey. The antacid it contains is an excellent source for healing. Honey is free of microbes and contains all the vitamins, which the bees gather together with the pollen of the flowers. Honey does wonders for colds, sore throat, enteritis and the flu - it is not just useful as racing pigeon feed! It is a natural food - healthful, energy-giving, and healing. Not only is it good for children, but also for adults; prevention is better than cure, and with this saying, honey certainly plays an important role. Being good for humans, it must also be good for pigeons, and we advise all fanciers to give it to their birds as part of their racing pigeon feed, because we ourselves do well with its use. We use it all year round, one teaspoonful in a quart of water. Dissolve the honey first, in a glass of water. Never pour hot water on honey, since this may ruin the vitamins and may also cause fermentation. After a long, hard race, our widowers get all they want to drink of this... one tablespoonful in 500 cc. of water. At least two days a week, and two days before basketing, the honey brew should be in all pigeon lofts. As the well known saying goes: "Try it... you might like it!" Water and Sugar in Racing Pigeon Feed Every fancier who wishes to keep up with the modern advances in racing pigeon feed, will make use of glucose-sugar. Glucose - the food for the muscles before the season and after the race, helps the birds to recuperate faster. If the birds are basketed on Friday, then on Wednesday and Thursday add 2 teaspoons full of glucose-sugar to each quart of drinking water. On their return from the race, for one day, add two or three teaspoons full of glucose-sugar to each quart of their drinking water every time your racing pigeons feed. On the next day, clean the drinkers and serve fresh water. When we use tea, after it has cooled off, you may add some glucose-sugar to it. Some fanciers use sugar cubes (6 to a quart of water), or crystal sugar, using one tablespoonful to a quart of water. We prefer glucose as part of their racing pigeon feed because it is easier to use, and with us, it has given the best results

Increased Passion for Pigeons and Racing Pigeons

Pigeons and racing pigeons are all over the world. It is amazing to watch these birds come back to the same place they call home. Owners can let them free without worrying of losing the pigeons as they will come back to the same place may be the same day or at times even after a month or year. The pigeons can fly 90+ miles in an hour. Indeed, the pigeons sets landmark on its way to return to the same place. It is due to these features of the pigeons there are many pigeon racing events are conducted across the world. The racing birds are fed with special care. There are many varieties of pigeons available for the racing competitions. The fanciers and owners will not have less than 30 pigeons for racing. Most of these birds will be trained from a very young age. It is better to train at young age as it must is fascinating to watch. Every pigeon fancier will love to see the young ones come and go. There are many factors related to training pigeons for racing at young ages especially when they can be vaccinated at once together. The main factor to consider while training a pigeon is the ability to make it migrate and return home. However, it is not wise to conduct the training during fog, heavy winds and rain. Most of the racers would release racing pigeons at 7 AM in the morning. Following a systematic training procedure will help you to get better results in the events. Always have food and water ready for the returning pigeons. Special care has to be taken while weaning young methods. This is the time to identify the best and the lazy ones. During the weaning period, if the youngsters do not eat, drink and bather properly, it is better to dispose them. Such birds will become weak and breeder of diseases. This could affect the remaining birds as well. The best and the healthiest youngsters can be noticed within 24-30 days of age. In the racing events, the fastest bird to return travelling maximum miles will be awarded the winner's prize. This is the main reasons racing pigeon fanciers and owners train the pigeons focusing on distance travelled. The birds in the races will have a small band around its leg, which helps to identify to whom it belongs. These bands are placed at a younger age. Ensure your racing pigeons supplies are safe and secure. The best method to find a best supplement is to avoid products that mainly contain man made ingredients. Even though, supplements with natural ingredients are expensive, they will help the birds to remain healthier and perform better in the races. You can notice the changes in the pigeons in a week's time after feeding the supplements with natural supplements. These are interesting birds, having pigeons and racing pigeons have become more than a passion today to the pigeon fanciers. This is why pigeons are cared very much by its fanciers

How to Take Care of Pigeons

Pigeons are known for their intelligence and various, unique colors. And would you believe they were also considered as loyal soldiers during World War II? The pigeons' talents are exceptional; they are reliable and can travel fast. But nowadays, these traits of the pigeon are being overlooked. If provided with proper care and love, pigeons would never fail in easing your stress and fatigue. They are amazing pets! You would certainly love them. However, before deciding to own one or a number of these birds, you must consider the following; these will guide you in taking care of these wonderful birds. 1. Pigeons, just like human beings, need to be treated with respect and love. These creatures also have life thus pigeons do not deserve to be violated and exploited. 2. Before deciding to purchase, these creatures be sure that you, as an owner, will be responsible enough to take care of these wonderful animals. Be ready for the requirements these birds need if you want to own one. 3. If you decide to purchase or own a pigeon, be sure to consider its housing. Ideally, you must already establish a home for the pigeon before even purchasing one. Pigeons need a house just like human beings to maintain their health and performance. 4. Clean food and water must be provided at the pigeon pen or pigeon coop all the time. Pigeons are not fancy eaters so they will eat up just any grain or anything you serve, but if you are trying to breed them and to maintain their performance and good health, you should give them pigeon foods. Foods which are processed and are specifically made for pigeons. Water must also be available all the time, especially during hot weathers. Pigeons do not have skin pores nor are capable of sweating that is why they can easily be affected by heat. 5. Remember, healthy pigeons consume a lot of food that is why you can expect that they will also produce plenty of waste. Keep the pigeon's coop or pen clean at all times. This will prevent being infected with parasites and various diseases. 6. Pigeons also need vitamins. If you are planning to breed these birds, or are trying to engage on pigeon sports. Be sure to give your pigeons vitamins to enhance their performance and strengthen their immune systems. 7. It is also advisable to release the pigeons from their coops when the weather is fine. Not too hot or too cold. In this way, the pigeons will be able to stretch their wings which will promote your pigeon's better circulation. NOTE: Be sure to release your pigeons only if they are trained in going back to their coops. If releasing them is not practical then you can provide a flying pen in which the pigeons could fly a bit and stretch their wings. 8. During hot seasons, make sure you have a basin full of water where your pigeons can take a bath. These will help the pigeons to prepare in shedding their old feathers to new ones helping in the maintenance of the health of your pet pigeons. Overall, taking care of pigeons is easy; you just have to be responsible enough. Just give them appropriate love and care and you will discover that pigeons are amazing pets

Some Interesting Facts About Pigeons

Here are a few interesting facts about pigeons. You can share your views about pigeons and this article by commenting at the end of this page. In the 17th century, all pigeon droppings were considered the property of crown in England. These droppings were used in making gun powder. Pigeons have lived alongside humans for a long time as the oldest images of pigeons ever found date back to 3000 BC. These images were found by archeologists in Iraq. They have excellent eyesight and can see colors. They can even see ultraviolet light which humans can't see. Due to their exceptional eyesight, pigeons are sometimes used as aids in human search and rescue missions. Pigeons have also been mentioned in the Bible. Males are slightly larger than the females. Pigeons were used as a means of communication in wars as this method of communication couldn't be jammed. Interestingly, some armies still use keep pigeons. The passenger pigeon, which was one of the most commonly found birds on earth if not the most commonly found, is now one of the extinct birds. In early 1800s, there were between 3 to 5 billion passenger pigeons in North America. Pigeons feed their hatch-lings with a secretion called pigeon milk. Both males and females produce it. Their eggs take 18-19 days of incubation to hatch. Rock pigeons were originally domesticated as a food species. Queen Elizabeth of England has lofts of pigeons at her estate in Sandringham, Norfolk. Pigeon is considered a sacred bird in sikhism and feeding pigeons is considered a virtue that will bring some benefits. Today, a few species of doves and pigeons are threatened with extinction. Pigeons and doves together constitute the bird family Columbidae. Although the terms 'pigeon' and 'dove' are used interchangeably but there is a small difference between the two. Doves are smaller species while the larger species are called pigeon. In the early 1800s the Rothschild family used pigeons as a source of communication set up a network of pigeon lofts throughout Europe for this purpose. This method proved to be much speedy and secure and helped them in increasing the amount of their wealth. Owls, raccoons and eagles are among common predators in the north. Cats are a common predator of pigeons on the ground. They can reach puberty when they are just about six months old and can live for about 10 to 15 years

3 Key Nutrients For Pigeon Racing

There are three major nutrients need for an healthy racing pigeon. They are: Fats, carbohydrates, and protein. All three of these are essential for a pigeons health and should be taken seriously to make sure they are getting the required amounts. Protein is an amazing nutrient for breeding pigeons. This is because protein helps build, maintain and repair muscles and other tissues. This helps pigeons prepare for breeding, improving the fertility and hatch-ability. Protein also allows the youngsters to have improved growth and increased development of other areas. It has been proven that a 18% mix of protein in pigeon feed is the ideal amount, in pigeon racing. Anymore than 18% doesn't do any harm but doesn't have any improvements. Fats are essential for sustained flight. And we are talking about good fats, not the kind that us, humans eat and make us obese. The fat that racing pigeons eat help them store energy, so for long distance races they don't run out of energy half way. They can access this fat they have stored to provide energy throughout the whole race. Fat slowly releases the energy over a long period, in very small amounts. Carbohydrates are great for short bursts of energy. They are actually the simple and complex sugars found in pigeon feed. These sugars are not really stored in the body like fats are. Carbohydrates are for immediate energy, and for short term. In the first 10 minutes of flying, pigeons have burned up most of their carbohydrates, so that is why it is important to have fats in racing pigeon feed for long distance races. For short distance pigeon racing, carbohydrates is all that is needed to get them from start to finish so you don't need to feed them as much fat, as it will slow them down. This is why it is so important to know what your feeding your pigeons, and to train them properly. It is why most pigeon fanciers never win races. Of course there are many more nutrients to know about and educate yourself about to gain an advantage in the sky with pigeon racing. But these 3 are key to have success. Without them, it will be hard to go up against pigeons that are ready to go with the proper amounts of carbohydrates and fats. So don't stop at this one article, continue reading, continue learning and you will become more and more successful. Good luck!

Advantages and Disadvantages of Different Pigeon Control Methods

1. Fake Owl Statues: Owls are natural predators and pigeons are scared of them. This natural fear can be exploited and a life size statue of an owl can be installed on top a building to keep the pigeons away. The biggest advantage of this method is that, it is very cost effective. The disadvantage of this is technique is that, although it is effective, it provides only temporary relief from the pigeon problem. This is because the fake owl statue does not move and pigeons soon realize that it does not pose any real threat to them. 2. Bird Spikes: Bird spikes, which appear like sharp needles are devices that are specifically designed to scare away the pigeons and other pest birds. Pigeon spikes are easy to install. They cause great discomfort to pigeons and prevent them form nesting. However, they provide only a temporary solution to the problem. The biggest disadvantage of using bird spikes is that, their installation may cause a considerable amount of damage to the property. 3. Bird Nets: Bird nets made of nylon or fiber can be spread along with screws and hooks over the house roof to trap the birds. It is one of the most preferred pigeon control methods. A major disadvantage with this technique is that, the pigeons can peck the net and break free. Thus, it does not offer a permanent solution. 4. Sound Deterrents: Sound deterrents that available in the market make different kinds of sounds such as those of gunshot, hawk sounds and firecrackers to scare away the pigeons. The only disadvantage of sound deterrents is that, their continuous exposure can be a nuisance to the humans. Overview: Pigeon droppings, feathers, and other waste materials that pigeons use to build their nests can not only demean the property worth, but can also cause health complications. Pigeons can be lethal, as they carry various bacteria that spread fatal diseases. Therefore, it is very important to adopt a suitable pigeon control method after weighing its pros and cons.

Pigeon Racing 101 - Understanding the Condition of Young Birds

There are definitely a lot of reasons why you will fall in love with pigeon racing. It could be that you are by nature a bird-lover or that you easily get smitten by the draw of competition and the adrenaline rush that is associated to this sport. Whatever your reasons are for wanting to become a true blue fancier, you will definitely find training your young birds an exhilarating experience. At the end of the day, you will have the drive to discover every possible opportunity to prepare and train your young birds to become big winners. You will logically have to bring your youngsters as close as possible to the starting point of race competitions. You should not worry whether your youngsters will be able to cover the distance during your run-up preparation for the race or not. For the seasoned and experienced fanciers, the ability of their racing pigeons to find their way home is more important than their physical ability to cover the distance. This is probably the single most important element of pigeon racing that you have to take into account. While it is true that fitness and health are important, these will all go for naught if your youngster will not be able to find the right way back home. You have to remember that your birds will set off without a hitch and separate from the pack if you are able to boost their confidence. You can make this happen if you can bring them as near as possible to first race point. This is one of the best practices of pigeon racing that you must develop and adopt. Of course, for the initial races of young racing pigeons, you will encounter quite a number of birds which have not had sufficient training and experience. This means that disruptions in the pack are most likely to happen and this can sow confusion and set off a lot of birds in every direction except the right one. So, if you want your young birds to start on the right foot (or right wing?), you need to work on their ability to read the territory and find the right direction back home. Of course, you have to make sure that they have enough gas to cover the distance. Once you get to your third or fourth race, most of the youngsters that are entered in the racing competition will definitely have gained enough experience. This means that your young birds will be competing in a level playing field. However, be it the first, second or even the third racing competition, your chances of winning and your level of competitiveness will have to be worked on based on these critical aspects that need to be covered during the training and preparation of your young birds. Young as they are, you will have to rely more on the quality of training and preparation that you will give them. Once they are able to gain confidence through positive reinforcements, your young birds will be able to develop a genuine winning form. Pigeon racing is a rich combination of due diligence, persistence and love for the sport. Remember the key elements in turning your young birds to big winners - proper training and positive experience. Once you are able to cover these elements, you are surely off to a good start.

How to Train a Homing Pigeon

Steps 1 Make sure you have a homing and/or racing pigeon. Other pigeons are for show and will not fly back from long distances 2 Build a loft that a pigeon can enter. 3 Make sure there is a large opening, in which they can fly into. This should be predator-proof, though. You should be able to lock the bird/s away for it's own safety. 4 Keep your pigeon in that enclosed space without letting it out for about 4 weeks. Feed it healthy food at least 2 times a day (once in the morning and once before they go to sleep), but be careful not to overfeed it. 5 After about 4 weeks, take your pigeon out, and push it through the opening. Do this repeatedly until it's able to go in by itself. 6 Once your birds recognize that their loft is their home, it will symbolize safety and security for them. They may go in and out of the loft repeatedly when you let them out. 7 For flying breeds such as homing pigeons or rollers, you can let the pigeons fly away, and they will return within a few hours. 8 If you do not have a homing and/or racing pigeon (if you have a fancy pigeon, for example), you can just let them out and they will return. The next step is for homing pigeons only. 9 After about 2 weeks, the bird/s will have flown all over and gotten to know it's neighborhood. You can start taking the bird to a set location about a mile away. Go North, South, East, and West so they know how to come back from all directions. Do this a few times and then start doing it progressively farther and farther. You can begin by going one mile away from the loft at first, then two miles, then five miles, then ten miles, etc. Homing pigeons will do well up to about 50 miles away. They have been known to come home from farther locations but usually this is for extraordinary birds only.A true racing homer will return from hundredsof miles.

Pet Doves-Information about doves.

Common Name: Dove, Pigeon Scientific Name: Doves are in the family Columbidae and encompass over 300 separate species. The most commonly recognized dove -- the white dove, as pictured to the right -- is actually the most common of over 40 different color mutations of the Ringneck Dove, or Streptopelia risoria. Origin: While Ringneck Doves such as the white Dove shown originally hail from Africa, other Dove species originate from places all over the world. For example, Fruit Doves are endemic to Australia while Mourning Doves are one of the most prolific and widely recognized wild bird species in North America Size: While different species of Doves come in different sizes, as a general rule, most types of doves fall between 8 and 12 inches in length from the beak to the tips of the tailfeathers Average Lifespan:Temperament: Tame, domesticated, handfed Doves are known for their sweet and gentle dispositions. Unlike parrots, softbills such as Doves have a reputation for rarely trying to bite or otherwise put up a fuss with their beaks. Some doves can be a bit more nervous with people than others, but this can often be calmed by utilizing positive socialization and bonding techniques. Because of their largely peaceful nature, pet Doves can be a good choice as a pet for older children who understand the need to be calm and gentle with companion animals. Colors: Pet Doves can come in a rainbow of colors and color combinations. As mentioned above, there can even be a wide variety of color mutations to be found within a single Dove species. The most commonly recognized pet dove colors are often white, gray, or a combination of the two with various species-specific markings. Feeding: In the wild, most Dove species subsist on a diet comprised mainly of fruits, berries, and seeds. Some species have been known to ingest the occasional insect, but the vast majority of Doves thrive on a vegetarian diet. Pet Doves in captivity seem to do best on a high quality seed mix (often marketed as a diet safe for Doves, Pigeons, or Parakeets) supplemented with millet, commercial pellets formulated for softbills, and a variety of fresh, bird-safe fruits and vegetables. Exercise: Like all birds, Doves need plenty of exercise. To maintain your Dove's health and physical condition, it is recommended that you allow it to come out of the cage into a safe, "bird-proofed" area so that it can stretch its legs, wings, and fly around for a bit for a minimum of one hour per day. Be sure that your Dove is always closely supervised during out-of-cage playtime, as these birds can often run into trouble if they encounter common household hazards. Doves as Pets: Beautiful, charming, and easy to care for, Doves make excellent pets for those who are interested in owning a pet bird, but don't quite feel ready to take on a more difficult pet such as a parrot species. Noted for their gentle dispositions and quiet, soothing vocalizations, Doves have been cited as an excellent choice as a pet for both young and older bird lovers. While they do, like any pet bird, require plenty of attention and socialization, Doves seem to be more naturally suited to interacting with humans than some other bird species, and tend to be easier for novice bird owners to tame and bond with. While they don't typically display the comical antics of the hookbill species, Doves have charming personalities and with proper care can offer their owners many years of entertainment, love, and companionship. If you are interested in adopting a pet dove of your own, try contacting a local Dove breeder to talk about what it's like to share your day to day life with one of these birds. See if you can set up an appointment to meet with them and their pets, and you'll be able to get a better feel for whether or not a keeping a pet dove is compatible with your family and lifestyle. With proper care, captive pet doves can live for as long as 10 to 25 years of age

SOME OF THE WIDE VARIETY OF CHOICES IN THE PIGEON WORLD

Kizoa slideshow: CPFA Slide Show - Slideshow

Racing Pigeon Feed - Fun Facts About Food

Usually when I talk about racing pigeon feed, I go on about the mixtures that are important in the different seasons of pigeon racing. But today I want to talk more individual foods that help pigeons health, and their racing abilities. Peanuts are great to put into your racing pigeon feed, especially during racing season. If your pigeons race long distances, peanuts are even more effective for that. But you must remember that peanuts must be the natural ones, not salted or flavoured. Peanuts contain a good amount of carbohydrates, and proper fats to store energy. For long distance racing this comes in handy, because with the stored energy, your pigeon can race much longer, and at a fast rate. This food blew me away. To be truthful, I thought it was a joke when I first heard about it. So I did my due diligence and did some research. It seems that this little fact was true so I tried it with my racing pigeons. And guess what it is true. Garlic is actually really good for your pigeons health. I know garlic right! Who knew? But if you actually stop to think about it, garlic is a healthy food for us humans, it helps stop blood from clotting, and can have a temporarily antibiotic effect in our digestive tract. For racing pigeons it can have the same effect. It also acts as a blood purifier, removing toxins from their blood. There is a proper way to serve garlic to your pigeons. You can buy garlic in liquid form, but sometimes that isn't the best option because the way it is processed into a liquid can eliminate the live enzymes and nutrients that make the garlic useful to us and our racing pigeons. It depends on the company that produces it. But I can say that the best way that I have found and read about is taking garlic cloves, crushing them, and then adding it directly into the drinking water of the pigeons. No boiling is necessary. This is something you can do to help improve the health of your pigeon. Well there you have it. Two great foods that you can use into your racing pigeon feed. One for increased energy in racing, which hopefully will result in more races being won. And one for improved health, which is a hidden gem. Try them out and let me now what results you get!

Inspirational Mother Dove - How to Be a Good Mom

All of us long for a loving mother. Many of you may feel like abandoned children, having grown up with mothers who did not cater to your needs properly. Therefore, you may be continually searching for nurturing from others. Some of you may even be mothers yourself, and are struggling with your duties as parents. Outside forces may easily distract you for caring for your children. However, when you look at the dove, you can gain insight into how to be a successful mother. I have always loved birds, especially doves. I have a large tree in my backyard and oftentimes, there will be over a dozen doves sitting in that tree at one time. Although they have been known to perch on the window ledge and make nests in the bushes on the east side of my house directly outside my bedroom, I love to wake up in the morning to the sound of their cooing. A few years ago, I noticed a mother dove had planted herself on top of the far corner post of my fence. As I went to investigate, I realized she had a nest on top of that post. She did not move for weeks. Finally, a little baby dove emerged and I watched curiously as that little one learned to fly. It took several days before it could fly successfully. The little bird took small steps to learn to fly, first mastering the bottom rung of my fence, then the top rung, and finally taking off across the yard; without the constant care of the mother dove, this tiny bird would not have been able to accomplish this feat. Within the last week, another dove has settled into a new nest in my yard. The bird, quite industrious, made a nest in an abandoned hanging flower basket. Located right outside my back door on the patio, the basket hangs from a curved, inverted wrought iron hook attached to the east patio wall. Therefore, the hanging basket and makeshift bird's nest protrudes approximately one foot from the wall and is situated about five feet in the air, safely tucked away from other intruders, such as cats or squirrels. Since its discovery, I find myself quite drawn to watch and protect the bird. The mother bird rarely leaves the nest. It can sit for almost twenty-four hours without moving. It is amazing. When my yardmen appeared the other day to cut the grass, I gave strict instructions not to disturb the nest. The bird did fly off during all the commotion. However, within hours, she lovingly appeared again and took up her position over the small egg. There are other birds in nature, such as mockingbirds and blue jays, who have built nests in my yard. However, no bird is ever as peaceful as the dove. Although mockingbirds sing beautifully, if you inadvertently get too close to their nests, they will dive bomb you incessantly. I have seen mockingbirds, and blue jays alike, attack many an animal that strayed too close to their young, including dogs, cats, squirrels and other birds. However, the mothering instinctive behavior of the dove is more than just a force of nature. I believe the dove has true nurturing abilities. From my observations, I understand why the dove is considered the symbol of peace. Although I have walked very close to the nest, the bird simply flies away and does not attack. Furthermore, the bird returns despite any adversity. It simply waits patiently for things to change and calm down. Furthermore, the dove has the additional patience of Job as it sits for hours and weeks, waiting for its egg to hatch. I have noticed the dove sit without moving during the cold, during severe wind, and during rain. Nothing seems to phase the bird from its mission of protecting its egg, not even the lack of food or shelter. In today's society, everything is rush, rush, rush. Many of us become frustrated and angry if things we want to happen in our lives do not occur almost instantaneously, as we are accustomed to things moving at this quick pace. If others get in your way, you may attack them until they leave you alone. You may want change now. You may be unhappy with your relationships, job, financial situation, health, or life. In Matthew 6 of the Bible, we learn that the spirit of God takes care of every creature, no matter how small. The dove is secure with this knowledge and does not drift from its course of creating a new life. It is the ultimate mother, both nurturing and peaceful. It continues to wait unwearyingly for its egg to hatch. Consider taking a lesson from the mother dove, bird of peace. Wait uncomplainingly for the new life you are birthing to come forth-the new life of spiritual ascension within you. No matter the cold attitudes of others, the winds of change, or the rain and storms of life, stay the course. Do not let others ruffle your feathers. Simply fly away from trouble and return to that place of peace when things have calmed down. Do not abandon your post and worry about other things. You will be taken care of by the spirit of God just as occurs with the dove. In doing so, you will be rewarded with a beautiful new life-a life that will allow you to soar high!

Dove-Caring for your doves

Seed Eaters. Doves eat seeds. They spend a great deal of time in nature walking around looking for seeds. Unlike the hookbills (keets, parrots, etc.), they do not husk their seeds. They swallow them whole. This makes it easier to tell when they need more food. They leave no trays of empty hulls as keets will. Dove Foods. Commercial dove foods are not as readily available as other bird foods. If you can’t find their food, the best substitute we’ve found is vitamin-fortified parakeet food. Doves will switch instantly to pelleted foods. Treats. Of course doves enjoy a change of pace in their diets. Keet foods have quite a bit of variety in them, but doves will appreciate different treats – even a little bite of bread or cracker. Greens, bits of fruit, and other little snacks go down smooth. Insects. In the wild, doves come upon and devour an occasional insect. They like bugs. In captivity, crickets, mealworms, and dried flies fill the bill. But their main food is seeds. Grit. Because they eat their seeds whole (with the husks on), doves may need grit. They use it to grind up their food in their gizzards. Sprinkle a little bit of grit on their floor or provide a small cup of it -- as opposed to mixing it in their food. Let them decide how much grit to consume. Actually, they get along quite well with no grit at all. However, calcium grit will help put calcium into their system. Egg-laying females need extra calcium. Appearance. Bright eyes and an inquisitive look make the dove an appealing bird to most people. They seem to look to their owner for attention. Doves also quickly bond to their owner and like to follow you around. Cooing. People also like the cooing sound the males make. The phrase “billing and cooing” comes from the mating activities of this particular group of birds. They coo to attract their mates. The cooing sound also seems to attract humans. Mating. Doves prefer to pick their own mates. However, most are not what you would call picky. One male plus one female usually results in a breeding pair. Nests. Since they are such terrible nest builders, many doves will quickly take over their food bowl as a better nest than they could ever build. If you feed yours from a five-inch ceramic bowl, don’t be surprised to find your female setting on a clutch of eggs in the food bowl. Some will even lay eggs on the cage floor. A few randomly placed twigs complete their nuptial suite. Hatchlings. Not all the eggs hatch at the same time, because the female lays them on different days. The babies are small, poorly feathered, and helpless. (They are also ugly.) She is an excellent parent, but not protective at all. You can lift her up and scope out (or scoop out) the eggs and youngsters without upsetting her much. Both the female and the male feed the babies. The babies stay in the nest until they are almost as big as their parents. This process takes less than six weeks. Baby Food. Both parents feed the babies “pigeon milk.” The parents eat and partially digest their seed diet, then regurgitate it into their kids’ open beaks. The babies grow quite rapidly on this special diet. You can assist the parents by giving them extra “nestling foods” at this time. Any extra nutrition always helps. Big Cage. Because of their wide wing span, prefer a larger cage. Something in the range of a cockatiel cage works great. You can house them uncomfortably in a 14x14 cage. Much better – a 24x24-inch rabbit cage. They really like bigger cages. If you keep them in a small cage, they absolutely need an exercise period. Clean Cages. Usually a weekly cleaning will handle the situation. doves are not particularly messy -- except for their loose feathers. Nor do they throw out their seeds for entertainment as much as many small birds do. Mites. Cleaning the cage on a regular basis will prevent most pest problems. Adding one of the “cage protectors” also helps. It repels them like moth balls. Maybe that’s why they smell like moth balls? If your bird does get mites (evidenced by a scaly beak or feet), you can eradicate them easily. Mites are not much of a problem these days. Cage spray works. As does Ivermectin in serious cases. Cage Cover. You don’t need a cage cover. However, it could make your life easier. If you tire of their cooing, that’s where the cage cover works. It literally turns your dove off like a light switch. Avoid Drafts. Cool temperatures will not harm your dove. Drafts will. Keep their cage away from open windows on windy days, from furnace and air conditioner outputs, and from fans. Provide Roosts. Although doves spend a lot of time walking on their cage floor, they still need roosts. It always helps to give them a variety of roost sizes. They cannot climb all over their cage wires like the hookbills do. And position their roosts far enough away from the cage walls to not “ruffle their feathers.” Tail feathers, that is. Clean Roosts. Use one of the little wire brush roost cleaners on an as-needed basis. Soaking them in a bucket of bleach water also helps. Exercise Time. Doves need “outside time.” They really appreciate flying around on a daily basis. Doves don’t actually try to escape, they just like to “try their wings” to keep in good shape. You won’t need to trim their wings like you do on most birds. doves just do not try to escape. Inside Birds. Of course, you don’t want your doves to “try their wings” outside. They could fly away. Escapees have a very short memory of where they came from. Escapees also have little chance of surviving in the wild. Cats don’t even have to sneak up on them. s are just not afraid of predators. The Sun. Like all animals, doves appreciate the sun (or its equivalent). Naturally, they can’t take full-time exposure to the sun anymore than we can. If you do build an outside aviary, make sure they get mostly shade in addition to sunning areas. However, with all the wild bird diseases out there (Nile fever for one), outdoor aviaries are losing their appeal. Artificial Sun. Many manufacturers make artificial sun light these days. These are the exact spectrum of sunlight but not at the same harmful intensity. They keep the birds healthier and more colorful. Bathing. Healthy birds preen their feathers daily. Many like to take a daily bath. Doves like a daily misting. It helps them preen and clean their feathers.This keeps them sleeker and, of course, cleaner. Water. Forget water bottles. Doves drink from water dishes. Change their water daily because they insist on defecating in it. Molting. Doves molt (shed old feathers and grow new ones) once a year – in the warm months. Baby doves usually molt their initial feathers several weeks after birth. Basic Care Plan for Doves •Cages should have a minimum of 2 cubic feet per bird •Separate dominate males in different cages •Clean cages daily & replace floor papers •Exercise birds daily by letting them out of cage to fly around •I used to Feed a balanced diet of KAYTEE Dove Mix Seed and Whole Wheat Bread I tried pellet feeds and they did not work out well for us, seed is best. (I use about 275 lbs of seed in a year).... I am now feeding Wild Bird Seed with a little Wild Game Chow added to it for the vitamins. The birds seem to be doing fine on this mixture and they also are breeding well. They hatched 5 chicks in a week. Another suggestion is to feed Purina Nutrablend gold or green Pellets, ground slightly, augment with wild bird seed. This didn't work well with my birds however. •Provide fresh water for drink and bath* each day •Provide different levels of branches or perches for dominant birds to help prevent fighting or separate birds •Allow access to sunlight or Vitagrow Lamp light Daily •Provide nesting boxes (4x6 to 6x6) filled with straw or shredded paper. * without providing a large bowl of water to allow the nesting parent doves to bathe in, the dove eggs can dry out and suffocate the unhatched chick, especially in dry climates such as in Montana according to the WSU School of Veternary Science Ornithology Professor, Dr Starbuck, whom I called to ask why my dove's eggs were not hatching the first year I tried breeding white doves. Since then I have bred well over 150 birds from the original 4.

A Clean Bird Room - 5 Ways To Keep Your Aviary Clean

A clean environment for your bird will keep you and your pet healthier. Sometimes it may feel like effective cleaning is easier talked about than done. But following the 5 suggestions below will help you drastically reduce the number of particles in your bird room. Avoid Particle Traps----There are so many places in the usual home and even bird room that can trap allergens. Wall-to-wall carpet, upholstered furnishings, piles of books and magazines, fabric draperies, horizontal blinds, and the list goes on and on. Most of these surfaces are woven and can trap an unbelievable number of particles that can and are sent airborne with daily activities. The more of these you can eliminate, the better you will be able to clean thoroughly and really reduce the number of particles that are even available to get into your air. As you add to and replace furnishings in your bird room and home, think bird-friendly replacements. Opt for easy-to-launder throw rugs that are easy to launder. Consider furniture that can be wiped down with a damp cloth rather than fabric covered pieces. Choose linoleum, tile, wood, or other hard surface that can be mopped clean. And think about shades that can be rolled up and wiped clean and vertical blinds as options that will allow more particles to fall to the floor. Say No---Saying no to just one more bird can mean that the bird(s) you have already adopted will have a better life. If you are a bird-lover you probably want to give every homeless bird a good life. But depending on the size of your space, continuing to add birds past a certain point makes it nearly impossible to keep conditions healthy. "The more the merrier" rule does not apply in this situation. Offering fewer birds a good life trumps having a ton of birds that you are unable to care for properly. Clean Often---How often you clean will be your call based on your situation. But you'll be able to tell if your schedule is working pretty quickly. Some people are able to clean every couple of days, and others feel they need to clean every day and sometimes more than once a day. Your frequency will depend on the number and type of birds you have. Those with powder-down birds such as African Greys, Cockatoos, or Cockatiels may find that more frequent cleaning is necessary to keep up with the incessant white powder that these parrots produce. The goal is to literally keep the dander and dust down. Your room doesn't need to be able to be able to pass the white glove test, but almost. Clean Smarter---One of the best ways to really take particles out of circulation is to use water to clean. Adding water to the mix with a damp mop or cloth makes the particulates too heavy to escape into the air again and gives you more of a chance of permanently eliminating them. A vacuum with a HEPA or high efficiency particle arresting filter is also an excellent way to make sure that what is sucked into the vacuum cleaner stays in the vacuum cleaner. Keep the broom and dust mop out of the mix and opt for the vacuum cleaner. Filter The Air---Regardless of how smart or frequently you clean, particles will get into the air. Particles just come with the territory when you live with birds. The only way to reliably keep the air clean is to filter it continuously. HEPA filtration is best because its only by-product is fresh air. There are no ionized particles or ozone levels to worry about. HEPA filtration is used by hospitals and will surely work for you in your situation. This type of filter must have proven that it is able to eliminate 99.97% of airborne particulates that are.3 microns or greater. Together, these 5 steps can take you closer to providing a wonderful life for you avian friends, and a healthier life for all who live with them.

Smart Tips to Build a Bird house

There are many people in the world who loves to enjoy company of having their pet birds. For these people, building a birdhouse is a best way to enjoy their companionship. However, building a birdhouse at home needs to be durable, rain proof and clean as well. It is of no doubt that wood is the best material for making a birdhouse. There are many things that must be taken care of for building a home for your pet bird. Right Place Choosing right place for every specific type of bird is crucial. Every single bird species has changed requirements and it is essential to know all about birds. A house of bluebird needs to be in a place that is near or opposite to an open field where bugs they eat are in abundance. On the other hand, House wrens wish theirs to swing from a small tree in a yard and chickadees want their home to be in a group of shrubs and small trees. Right Size Next thing required is to choose right size for house with precise dimensions. Most people think birdhouses are all mostly same, but that's not right. It is partly a practical tactic, but actually a small bird need a small house. A chickadee would be glad in a home about 8 inches tall with a 5x5 inch of base. Bluebirds demand a bit of larger box, so 10 inches high with a 5½x5-½ inch base would work well for them. However, for larger bird like a screech owl, you need to build a house of about 24 inches high with a base 10x10 inches wide. Precise Height One more factor to figure out is height for your birdhouse. Right height for bluebirds and tree swallows is about 5-8 feet tall on a pole. House wrens want their house to be 6- 10 feet high and dangling from a tree. On the other hand, a home for purple martins needs to be of 15-20 feet in air and it could be even higher for screech owl. The chance of appealing a chickadee is better if it is located about 4- 8 feet over a wood. Door Size The door is an important feature and needs to be of correct size. If entry hole is too big, it will merely inspire predators to attack family. A birdhouse constructed for house-wrens will need to be of smallest size of about 1-1/8 inches only. This will make sure that no other birds will try to enter. Just a small modification in entry hole really will control what type of birds can fit in.

Diamond Dove - The Pet Bird That Doesn't Talk Back (Or Bite!)

The popularity of keeping parrots as pets has overshadowed the other available pet bird species, species that make endearing pets that are often simpler to care for, and can be highly entertaining when given the opportunity.

The Diamond Dove is one such bird.

Diamond Doves are the size of parakeets, or budgerigars for those of you in Britain. These birds can live anywhere from five to twenty years old.

The beautiful wild color variation is the most commonly found, with the males bluish-gray on the heads, necks, back, and wings, white tails, white spots on the wings, and a well-defined orange ring around each eye. The female of this color variation has more brown on her head, neck, and wings, and a less well-defined orange eye ring, but is beautiful none the less.

Diamond Doves come in a wide variety of color variations, from the wild type to cinnamon, silver, silver-blue with white tails, soft yellow, to a gorgeous pure white.

The sound the doves make is a gentle 'coo-coo' with the male being somewhat louder during courtship. My female dove Emma's 'coo-coo' is somewhere between a coo and a beep. Diamond Doves are never obnoxiously loud, as so many parrot species are.

Diamond Doves are highly sociable birds always happiest when in the company of their own kind. But these birds are also highly prolific. If you do not want a flock of tiny doves, then purchase only one bird. Be patient and the dove will bond with you in a few weeks' time.

My dove follows me around the house each morning. When she can't find me I hear her coo-coo. I call her name and then mimic her coo. I soon hear a flutter of wings as she arrives. I have to be careful not to step on her when she follows me around because Diamond Doves are ground-feeding birds. They spend a lot of time poking about the floor or the bottom of their cage.

The best cage for Diamond Doves should be long rather than high so the birds can fly from perch to perch. A cage two feet by two feet can house a single pair of doves. The birds will even breed in a cage this size.

Remove any wire mesh on the floor of the cage. Your bird or birds will want to peck after fallen seed or grit, or simply sit on the floor from time to time.

Feeding a Diamond Dove is simple. A diet of mixed finch seed with plenty of millet mixed with a vitamin powder will do, with the occasional treat of greens or egg crumbles. Be sure to provide a bowl of grit because doves need grit to crush seeds. Fresh water should always be available. You can also provide a cuttle bone for calcium, but I find doves get plenty of calcium from their grit. The choice is yours.

Diamond doves have individual personalities best seen when the bird is kept singly in a cage and when bonded with you, much like house cats. He or she may be a fussbudget, a mother hen, aggressive, nosy, laid back, always on the go, or any combination of the above.

Diamond doves can be trained to step onto hand-held perches and even come when called. My dove Emma knows her name and even her nickname ('munchkin bird'). She knows how to nag me into opening her cage and, once out, will often perch on the edge of my laptop while I write, if not on my shoulder. When feeling demonic, she pecks at the keys while I am trying to work. I shoo her off and then she retreats to the houseplants, where she pokes about in the dirt.

Parrots are wonderful birds. But if you are looking for a smaller, quiet, and easier to care for feathered companion, but still a lot of fun, then you owe it to yourself to get better acquainted with the lovely Australian charmer the Diamond Dove.

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Good Wishes to all. Welcome to my blog .This is about the bird dove. At my blog having more informations about the symbol of peace bird dove. Now-a-days in the all over world all are having pets at their home. Pets involve our life as a family members.We must take care to our pets. Its very important. Dove has a lot of varieties .Each varieties of doves had a lot of interesting informations.I want to share you friends.